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smithtim
03-18-2010, 06:44 PM
So its my annually spring break trip but my wife school never lines up with mine so I go climbing excuse for a vacation

Came up to BOS on 3/16 then did Frankenstein Cliffs on 3/17 for some "technical ice climbing practice"... loads of fun and the people at IME are great and as always strongly would recommend!


Then today (3/18) I had a free day and the weather was great and the avalanche conditions were looking "moderate." So I got up and got to Pinkman around 5:30ish then turned on the headlamp, drank that last fake red bull had some water and popped a gel - started up towards the base of Tuckerman?s ravine.. probably 7ish or so by the time I got there. No ranger post on the avalanche conditions yet and the south wall looked a little concerning so being early in the day I decided to bail!
Then I headed back down tucks trail and then headed over to Huntington?s by the cut off trail which meets back up with the Huntington trail right next to the base of Lion's head winter route starting point.

Couldn't resist the Lion's head and was early in the day so I popped another gel and wandered on up to near treeline ( not quite) so that I could practice more on my crampoing as living in Florida it had been a while ( Dec ). Nice quick run up and down the Lion's head, like I said I used the axe and Crampons but the trail was solid with steps pounded in so easily could be done with boots & poles ( in fact I met a nice couple from Seattle who were doing such and we chatted about NW climbing a bit :)

By the time I got back down to the base of the trail it was around 10:30 ish so still plenty of time to give Hunnington's a try; probably got to the base of the climb by 11:30 ish, then I took a little break had a snack and was some highly intelligent people above me approaching and climbing on steep ice with no tools nor rope :( :( :( After about 10000 minutes they cleared out or at least clear enough for my liking ( still having pain from the chunk Frankenstein threw at me yesterday while on belay.. OK there cause ropes but no room for chance today as sole).... So popped another gel threw on the crampons and walked straight up French style to the rocks at the bottom of the ice. It looked like I could have gone over the ice OK to alpine trail, but I didn't have a second tool so I didn't want to push the luck ( and beside that would mean cutting over to go back down Lion's head and sitting in traffic)... So took a little break put the axe away and walked straight down with poles... Back to the car around 2-3ish and then time for some belly busters carbs :)


I have some pics, but they are on me cell so I'll try to get them off and uploaded when I get back in the office monday

Best, Tim


p.s. if my legs feel OK tomorrow I might give Madison / Adams a try by airline?.. anybody know how the conditions are over there lately? Snowshoes needed?