PLEASE PRAY!!! Climbers trapped. Mount Hood, Oregon

[Rodney Stokes]

It is very sad what has happened on Mount Hood. I live in Oregon and there are always rescues on Hood. The climbers were absolutly stupid to go up there without a beacon. They are cheap to rent and maybe they still would be dead but atleast it is the responsible thing to do because it makes the rescue safer. Those people who go after the stupid ones are the true heroes. There is no cure for stupid but death. Think before climbing...Please.

[Bill O]

It is very sad what has happened on Mount Hood. I live in Oregon and there are always rescues on Hood. The climbers were absolutly stupid to go up there without a beacon. They are cheap to rent and maybe they still would be dead but atleast it is the responsible thing to do because it makes the rescue safer. Those people who go after the stupid ones are the true heroes. There is no cure for stupid but death. Think before climbing...Please.

These climbers were two steps below world class. What kind of beacon are you talking about? Should everyone have a beacon? Should I drive with a beacon in my car?

Unless you know of some magical beacon, I'm not sure one exists that would have saved them. It was not humanly possible to reach their last known location until Sunday...and they did. The batteries would have been long dead by then.

[Gorque]

Unless you know of some magical beacon, I'm not sure one exists that would have saved them. It was not humanly possible to reach their last known location until Sunday...and they did. The batteries would have been long dead by then.

Good point. In this case, smoke markers or flares would've been the better choice, but no one goes off expecting to be snow bound for a week. The weather that blew in was the worst in many years. I'd bet the ranch (if I had one) that these climbers had no intentions of scaling Hood in those conditions. A more liberal use of their cell-phones (as well as having one for each climber) to check on the weather conditions might've prevented this tragedy.

[Bill O]

I assume Rodney was referring to the new PLB's, satellite based personal locater beacons. Although an excellent tool, they are not widely used. Once used to transmit the battery life is somewhere around 1-3 days. They transmit a GPS signal that is no more accurate then the one transmitted by Kelly's mobile phone. When searchers are within a mile they can hone in on the radio beacon, but nobody got near that distance within the first 6 days.

Gorgue's points are valid. Although, nobody realistically caries flares in the mountains. Also, pretty much everything we discussed in the past is moot, because the chain of events appears to be dramatically different than we first speculated.

We were all under the impression that Kelly was holed up alone near the summit with an injury. The other two went for help and we assumed they also hunkered down during the storm. When the weather cleared they were all going to emerge from their caves, flag down help, and get lifted off the mountain.

It appears this is not what happened. To the best of my knowledge this is what occured:

-All three men scaled the Eliot Glacier via the Gullies and summited.

-Shortly after summiting Kelly suffered an arm injury and bad weather moved in. They planned to descend via the normal route, but either could not find the entrance to the route or the weather was too severe.

-All three men spent at least one night in a large snow cave.

-The next day the other men left the snow cave to seek help for Kelly. They traversed the mountain to the top of The Cooper Spur. They setup an anchor and made a very small cave, more like a place to hide from the wind.

-Then an accident occurred. They fell, were blown off by wind, or swept away via an avalanche.

-Kelly later made the desperate call to has family.

[rockin rex]

The climbers were absolutly stupid to go up there without a beacon.

How can you even say that?? If it wasn't for the injury they would of been out with no problem. I will say I never climb with a beacon or cell phone. I feel free with just me and the mountain. If I got caught in the same situation these guys did I would most likely be dead also. They did everything perfect and who counts on an injury and then weather to come in like it did. These guys got caught in over 100 mile an hour winds and white out conditions. what good would a beacon do. Bill O is right on with how things transpired. From all I have read and heard the way Bill O put it is right on. We have a top notch climber who lost his life and two missing and you call them stupid?????????????

[Bill O]

From the thousands of posts I have read, dozens of articles, numerous photos and interviews. Nobody in the mountaineering community considers these men to be stupid climbers. A series of bad events conspired against them. Most notably the injury to Kelly (sounds like a dislocated shoulder) which probably was the result of a simple slip.

I just came across this photo indicating (red dot) the position of the second "cave" and anchor system. This is slightly different from the Oregonian graphic:

[rockin rex]

Thanks for the picture Bill. So sad they had made it when the injury happend.
In reguards to the post about a beacon I went back and looked at the other post this same person had posted and he has not even climbed washington. Not a bad thing at all by its self but how can you judge top notch climbers?? I guess I need to let go of my anger and consider the source. To me these guys are heroes. The one died doing what he loved most and living his dreams and the other 2 are missing because they were doing what they loved most and living their dreams. More people should go after dreams and do what they really enjoy rather than sitting back and letting life pass them by. I hope when God decides to take me he takes me on a mountain.

[Gorque]

Well I was being a wise-arse with the flare comment.

But I always go with my cell-phone (turned off, of course), gps and a compass as a back up. I'd rather carry a little extra weight and be safe and sure of my location as well as being able to communicate in case trouble happens.

[rockin rex]

Sorry Gorque wasn't speaking of you at all. I understood where you were coming from. The post that upset me was the one at 11:05 by Rodney. I have calmed my anger so I will let it rest. Some people like the safety of a phone or rescue aid and some people, like me, like to climb free. Neither way is wrong. I guess it is what you are comfortable with. Everyone tells me not to head up washington in winter solo but I still do it. There is a freedom there just me and the mountain. I will tell you with this thinking I would never expect a rescue by Randolph Search and Rescue. I decide to climb free I come down free.

[Gorque]

I knew you weren't writing about me Rex. I just needed to elaborate on the items I bring with me, in addition to a map, to help me navigate. I have this ability to easily get lost.

Getting back on topic, it seems the "authorities" found a camera with Kelly James and they aren't liking what they saw on those pictures. The news reports aren't saying what "they don't like".