Avalanche
Deaths a Tragic Part of Mount Washington History
By Peter Crane, Curator, Gladys Brooks Memorial Library | June 15, 2021
Mount Washington and Ammonoosuc Ravine (looking
from the west). The large dot marks the approximate site of the Forgays
tragedy. Bradford Washburn photo.
On Monday February 1, 2021, an avalanche in Ammonoosuc Ravine took the
life of Ian Forgays, 54, of Lincoln, Vermont.
Forgays, a very experienced backcountry skier, was skiing alone in this
ravine on the western side of Mount Washington. Weather conditions were
favorable with the temperature in the single numbers and teens and winds
averaging 33 miles per hour that day. The Mount Washington Avalanche Center had
issued a “low” rating for avalanche danger, but it is important to under-stand
that low hazard does not mean no hazard, and even when such hazard is minimal,
it is not unusual for areas of unstable snow to exist in some locations. As the
Center’s forecast for the day stated, “the potential for small avalanches of
wind drifted snow remains in isolated areas at mid and upper elevations.”
Presumably Forgays skied onto such an unstable pocket, which released
and carried him downward. To compound his predicament, the spot lay in a
“terrain trap” — an area where a broader slope of snow could slide downward
into a tighter, funnel-like constriction, resulting in relatively shallow snow
piling up into a deep mass over the skier. This was a mass from which he could
not escape; new snowfall the next day, with a subsequent avalanche, buried him
only deeper.
Friends of Forgays alerted authorities to his absence late Tuesday. On
Wednesday, a full field search commenced, focused on Ammonoosuc Ravine. Forgays
had been using an avalanche transceiver, or beacon—a small device that sends
out an electronic homing signal which can be received by another such device—which
was essential in locating him. His signal was acquired at about 4:30 p.m.; it
would take more than an hour and a half to dig through almost 13 feet of
avalanche debris to reach him. By then Ian Forgays had succumbed to
asphyxiation.
The search and recovery effort included personnel from the New
Hampshire Fish and Game Department, the White Mountain National Forest/Mount
Washington Avalanche Center, and the all-volunteer Mountain Rescue Service.
The Mount Washington Avalanche Center issued a detailed incident
report, assessing the snow conditions and considering the decisions made by
Forgays. The Center noted that Forgays was a very capable and accomplished
skier, and such skiers, honed by experience, sometimes accept calculated risks.
Unusual circumstances can cause those calculations to go awry, to the
adventurer’s peril. In this case, the
Center stated, “skiing technical lines, in a thin snowpack above a notorious
terrain trap, with no partners, even on a Low danger day, raises the stakes
tremendously.” We send our condolences to Forgays’ family and friends.
According to available records, 17 people have died in avalanche
incidents on Mount Washington; this number does not include others who have
been caught, buried, or injured by such snow slides on the mountain and who
have lived to tell the tale.
The first two people who died in an avalanche-related incident on Mount
Washington were Philip Longnecker, 25, and Jacques Parysko, 23, who died in
January of 1954 while camping in an igloo-like snow shelter built imprudently
just beneath the Tuckerman headwall. Their shelter was hit by a small snow
slide, burying Longnecker and leading Parysko to attempt an escape by hiking
ill-prepared down the Sherburne Ski Trail, where he succumbed to hypothermia.
Another early avalanche victim was Aaron Leve, 28, who was hiking in
Tuckerman Ravine in February of 1956. He was with four others who were struck
by the snow slide—indeed one probably triggered it—but he alone was fully
buried, and it took an extensive effort to locate his by-then-lifeless body.
Following those incidents, it seems that all such tragedies involved
either skiers or climbers—the latter including technical ice climbers as well
as non-technical winter climbers on Lion Head.
As noted earlier, Ian Forgays, 54, died in an avalanche in Ammonoosuc
Ravine in February of this year. His was the first such incident on that side
of the mountain. Perhaps surprisingly, no skier has yet died in an avalanche in
Tuckerman Ravine. Three skiers have died in such incidents in the aptly-named
Gulf of Slides— John Wald, 35, and his companion Todd Crumbaker, 29, in one
avalanche in March of 1996, and David McPhedran, 42, in January 2000. More
recently, Nicholas Benedix, 32, died in an avalanche in April 2019 while
skiing down the Ravine of Raymond Cataract, a not-so-often skied route lying on
the east side of the mountain, between Tuckerman Ravine and Huntington Ravine.

Mount
Washington from the east (from atop Wildcat “D” peak). The summit of Mount
Washington is in the clouds, as is so often the case. From left to right can be
seen the Gulf of Slides, Tuckerman Ravine, the Ravine of Raymond Cataract, and
Huntington Ravine, each of which has been the scene of one or more avalanche
fatalities.
Mountaineers venturing onto the steep slopes of Huntington Ravine,
favored by technical ice climbers, have come to grief when unstable snow
perched precariously in that precipitous terrain has overcome them. In
February 1964, Hugo Stadtmüeller, 28, and John Griffin, 39, lost their lives as
a result of such a snow slide. Thomas Smith, 41, succumbed to an avalanche in
Huntington in February 1991; his climbing companion was injured but
survived. Peter Roux in January 2018,
and Jimmy Watts, 24, in March 2013, were solo climbers who died as a result of
avalanches in this ravine.
In early winter it is not unusual for ice climbers to ply their craft
on the headwall of Tuckerman Ravine, and two such climbers, Scott Sandberg, 32,
and Thomas Burke, 46, in separate parties, were lost to an avalanche in
November of 2002, in an incident that involved seven individuals.
The slopes of Lion Head, one of the standard not-so-technical routes
for winter ascent of Mount Washington, have been the scene of avalanche
tragedies as well. In January 1982, Albert Dow, 28, a volunteer from the
Mountain Rescue Service, lost his life while serving in the search for two
missing climbers. In January 1996, Alexandre Cassan, 19, died while attempting
an ascent of the mountain via Lion Head.
Of Mount Washington’s avalanche toll, five were skiers, seven were
technical climbers, and five were non-technical climbers or hikers. All were
male. The average age of the victims was 33, with a range from 19 to 54. Two
deaths occurred in November, none in December, six in January, three in
February, three in March and three in April. All of these people were on the
mountain for a day of enjoyment, to indulge their passion for recreating in the
outdoors and rising to mountain challenges, but it was a day from which they
never returned.
Left
to right, Mount Clay (with its summit in the clouds), Mount Washington and
Mount Monroe, seen looking northward from Mount Eisenhower. The upper reaches
of Ammonoosuc Ravine can be seen; it occupies the southwestern slope of Mount
Washington.
For those with an interest in exploring Mount Washington, or other such
mountains, in winter and spring, avalanche knowledge can be a prerequisite for
safe adventures. Especially if you have an enthusiasm for skiing the steeps, or
climbing challenging slopes, taking an avalanche safety course should be on
your to-do list. Many climbing schools or guide services offer such
instruction, from basic awareness sessions to detailed technical courses in
snow science and rescue coordination. Even with such training under your belt,
sometimes “a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing,” and humility and
acknowledgement of what you don’t know about the complicated subject of
avalanches should remain a guiding principle. (Renowned Swiss guide André Roch
once reminded a group of his colleagues, “It is good you are all experts. But
the avalanche, it does not know that you are experts!”) Check, and strive to
understand and abide by, the avalanche forecasts issued by the Mount Washington
Avalanche Center. Don’t just take a look at those forecasts once in a
while—read them daily through the winter, to further enhance your understanding
of the evolution of the snowpack and its potential hazards throughout the snow
season. Pack along “the holy trinity” of avalanche safety tools —beacon, probe,
and shovel —and practice their use, realizing that speed in use of a beacon can
literally mean the difference between life and death. And always remember that
alluring as the powder or ice or summit may be, the mountain will be there for
another day.
The waves of avalanche snow have been compared to ocean waves, in their
power, but also in their tragic impact. Indeed, it should never be forgotten
that, “The snowy torrents are like the deep sea: they seldom return their
victims alive.”